Jörg Hysek
© RD3 Complication/Jörg Hysek
Jörg Hysek是一位德國製表師、藝術家、和設計師。 Hysek 的兒子 Jörg Hysek Jr.自 2017 年起擔任De Bethune 的銷售總監。
Hysek在勞力士工作了四年。在此之後,他為寶璣、寶詩龍、卡地亞、玉寶、歐米茄、豪雅、蒂芙尼和江詩丹頓工作。 Hysek 為江詩丹頓領導了“Project 222”的設計,該項目後來成為舉世聞名的縱橫四海系列的原型,儘管許多人誤將其歸功於Gerald Genta。 1984 年,他更憑藉江詩丹頓的“Cuff Watch”榮獲“Grand Prix de la Ville de Genève ”。
以他為標誌的著名腕錶型號包括江詩丹頓 222、寶璣 Marine、Seiko Arctura、TAG Heuer Kirium和Tiffany Streamerica。
Jörg Hysek於 1997 年推出HYSEK 品牌,在鐘錶行業內樹立了顛覆性的願景,並以其非典型的風格質疑並敢於與眾不同。
在 2021 年初,Hysek 的一項重大創新是 41 毫米“深淵” Abyss,配備三隻鈦金屬指針。一款令人回味的作品,讓人回想起致力於尋找稀有起源。
直徑 41 毫米,由鈦金屬自動上鍊微型轉子機芯驅動,它保持了深淵系列如此成功的特性。同時展現出更“紳士的司機”風範,獻給那些尋找稀有珍品的人。帶有阿拉伯數字和時標的雙色調藍色錶盤在 3 點鐘位置的放大鏡下的日期窗口更加突出。 一個簡單而有效的風格效果,簡化為基本要素,因為這個Abyss 絕對不需要任何其他技巧來獲得所有選票。新品必備。
技術規格
機芯
- 自製 Hysek HW2000
- 機械上弦 - 小時 – 分鐘 – 指針 – 帶 guichet 的日期
- 226 個部件 - 41 件寶石 - 動力儲備 48小時
- 頻率 28 800 VpH
錶殼
- 尺寸:Ø41毫米
- 5 級鈦合金
- 3 點鐘位置的小日期
- 經過抗反射處理藍寶石表面
- 防水性:30米
- 5 級鈦金屬錶帶
- 折疊扣
]]>Jörg Hysek
Jörg Hysek is a German artist, designer and watch manufacturer. Hysek's son, Jörg Hysek Jr., is sales director at De Bethune as of 2017.
Hysek spent four years working at Rolex before starting his own design company, Hysek Styling. After this, he worked for Breguet, Boucheron, Cartier, Ebel, Omega, TAG Heuer, Tiffany, and Vacheron Constantin.
Hysek lead the design of "Project 222" for Vacheron Constantin, which later became the Overseas model, though many erroneously credit it to Gerald Genta. He was awarded the “Grand Prix de la Ville de Genève” in 1984 for the Vacheron Constantin “Cuff Watch”. Famous watch models crucially marked by him include the Vacheron Constantin 222, Breguet Marine, Seiko Arctura, TAG Heuer Kirium, and Tiffany Streamerica.
Launched in 1997, HYSEK brand has imposed its disruptive vision within the watch industry as well as its atypical style which heckles and dares the difference.
A major novelty for Hysek in this early 2021, the 41mm Abyss with three titanium hands. An evocative timepiece that recalls the genesis dedicated to those in search of the rare object to be collected.
Fifteen years have passed since the birth of Abyss, and yet this collection retains its dynamism and seductive appeal. Which is why a new version of the collection is making the news at Hysek today, as the year 2021 begins.
With a 41 mm diameter, driven by a self-winding micro-rotor movement in titanium, it keeps the characteristics that have made the Abyss line so successful. is while displaying a more “gentleman’s driver” style, dedicated to those in search of the rare object to be collected. Its two-tone blue dial with Arabic numerals and indexes is enhanced by a date window under a magnifying glass at 3 o’clock.
A simple and efficient stylistic effect, reduced to the essentials, because this 2021 Abyss needs absolutely no other artifice to garner all the votes. A new must have.
ABYSS « H » IN TITANIUM TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS
MOVEMENT
CASE
The evolution of Garrick continues. Indeed, after producing the S1, S2, S3, and S4, the Norfolk-based brand decided to put on its thinking cap, eager to find a name for its long-awaited new model. With much fanfare, the English brand is pleased to present ….the Garrick S5!
While many horophiles have fallen for the charms of Garrick’s 42mm models, some would-be wearers have found them to be a tad large. Sadly, the movements employed in the company’s previous models, including the firm’s exclusive calibres, are just too wide to fit in anything smaller than a 42mm housing. Now, Garrick, having listened to customer feedback, is pleased to unveil a new, smaller model, housed in a 39mm case and measuring just 8mm in depth.
Front of house, the English firm has endowed the S5 with a hand-guilloché dial, made in-house using a traditional rose engine lathe. Clients are given a choice of dial motifs and colours. Maritime-style hour, minute and seconds hands express meaning clearly and would-be owners can select heat-blued or polished steel hands. The steel chapter ring is adorned with 'satiné circulaire', 'sauté piqué and laser engraved Roman numerals which are inked by hand. Alternatively, the S5 can be ordered with an openworked, heat blued or polished steel chapter ring.
At the heart of the S5 is a new movement, the Garrick UT-GO5 calibre, dressed in a textured rhodium finish. Unlike several of its siblings, the balance on this model is positioned to the rear. It is secured with a three-spoke bridge, granting sight of the balance wheel oscillating backwards and forwards. Moreover, the index-adjusted balance has a frequency of 21,600 vph (3Hz) and the movement contains 20 jewels. The addition of a beat adjuster, yet another refinement, provides a trained watchmaker with the means to fine-tune the anchor symmetry.
Garrick’s timepieces are not mass-produced but made to order in the company’s Norfolk-based workshop by artisans and watchmakers. Each model is the product of know-how, patience and skill. Indeed, it is the high quotient of handcraftsmanship and Garrick’s approach to watch production that provides clients with such incredible choice. With the advent of the S5, this choice now extends to a new 39mm ownership option.
And lastly, the release of the Garrick S5 illustrates the power of social media. A couple of images showing a 3d printed case and partially-revealed movement led to unprecedented interest and numerous orders. As of today, the launch date of the S5, we are now looking to deliver new orders in 2023, crazy and unexpected!
No mass production - every Garrick timepiece is built to order in Norfolk workshop.
More information HERE
]]>The movement and its complications are highly innovative, beautifully executed and very robust. One side of the movement can be seen, and the most obvious feature is the 12 Maltese cross mechanism connected to the small hour indicator inserted into the dial. Two little fingers on the cross recess at 10 o'clock (just above the "O" in "Ludovic"), and one more finger on the inner edge of the cross at 9 and 11, ready for the mechanical in the center when 11 o'clock comes The device will work.
The snail cam that rotates every hour, then the top left fingertip, is held in place by a spring in the bottom center. When the point of the cam and the finger intersect, the finger snaps a notch in the ridged ring on the edge, which activates the jump-time indication. Viewed from the dial side, the current hour indicator is face up and shows a small dot to draw the eye, while all the other hour indicators, unsurprisingly, are upside down.
The captivating visuals don't stop there either. It offers a unique platinum B-shaped buckle. These days, it's almost a cliché to claim that a sophisticated watch can be paired with jeans, but the Upside Down of this color combination does.
With a diameter of 41mm and a height of 11mm, the lugs have a pronounced curve and are also very comfortable on the wrist
Falling in love with this watch is simple:
- You like the look of the watch
-Despite knowing exactly how it works, every time you put it on, you still sit there with a smile on your face and ask, "How did he do it?"
- The combination of a classic look and creative pieces is perfect as a collector or you are looking for something "different" that will stand the test of time
Functions: hours (indicated by a jumping rotating disc), minutes, small seconds
Case: Platinum or red gold, 41 x 11 mm
Dial: Coated Titanium
Movement: Hand-wound Ballouard Calibre B01, based on Peseux 7001 gear train and barrel geometry, with patented jumping-hours complication; 21,600 vph, 36-hour power reserve
]]>在2008年,F.P. Journe邀請VV Negault加入世界上最具創意的製表品牌的研發部門:FP JOURNE / Invenit et Fecit,學習了開發機芯和復雜功能的工程工作。 “成為 François-Paul JOURNE 的弟子並不是謙恭,而是貴族頭銜”
在2018年,Vladimir Victor NEGAULT 決定以獨立製表師和概念設計師的身份推出自己的品牌。在 4 年的時間裡,他根據非常新的複雜功能設計了由 5 種不同機芯組成的原創系列。在2022年,推出 ATAELIER HAUTE COMPLICATION 的“雙時區”作為品牌首款發售的作品。
品牌還將陸續推出複雜功能係列的另外4款作品:
- 帶有原創鳴響系統的陀飛輪,“過去半小時提醒器”,包括創新和緊湊的錘子和槓桿設計
- 帶有永久每週“商務”日曆的萬年曆(全球首創)
- 鳴響“Pendule de Paris”天文台表(全球首創)
- 完全具有革命性概念的 Grande Sonnerie 連同品牌首款“雙時區”作品,
整個系列5款作品都將萬眾矚目!
ATAELIER HAUTE COMPLICATION“雙時區”技術規格 - 316L 不銹鋼錶殼 - 直徑 41 毫米 - 厚度 9 毫米 - 表耳 20 毫米 -“德國銀” 自家機芯 - 45小時動力儲存 - 雙時區功能,其顯示比大多數市場格林威治標準時間更直觀和高效(大多數不使用 24 小時)
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機刻雕花(法語中的Guilloché)是使用專用工具將幾何圖案切割成工件的技術。最廣為人知的車削工具是玫瑰機,還有直線機和織錦機。機刻雕花是在 16 世紀發明的,第一批機刻雕花的手錶出現在 17 世紀後期。寶璣Breguet在推廣機刻雕花的錶盤方面發揮了重要作用,直到 1960 年代石英表問世前,這種錶盤一直在高級手錶中常見。 George Daniels引領了機刻雕花的複興,其他當代機刻雕花推動者如Derek Pratt、Roger Smith、Kari Voutilainen、Roland Murphy、和Brittany Nicole-Cox也紛紛效仿。
Shapiro的手錶品牌 J.N. Shapiro Watches,專門生產帶有機刻雕花錶盤的手錶。錶盤由Shapiro手工製作,錶盤有四種機刻雕花的代表性圖案:玉米紋barley corn pattern,棘齒紋ratchet pattern,編織紋basketweave pattern和無限編織紋"infinity weave" pattern,無限編織圖案是一個籃子編織內部的籃子編織。
無限編織紋是所有機刻雕花紋路中最具挑戰性的。當Shapiro發現將機刻雕花藝術推向極限,必鬚髮明一個新的紋路或圖案條才能做到這一點。 Shapiro說在創造無限編織時,小盒子的每一行都必須單獨完成,不能滑入更大的方塊,光是做錶盤中的無限編織紋部分都需要大約一周時間,而因一個微小錯誤將無限編織紋錶盤扔進垃圾桶的情況屢見不鮮。
除了機刻雕花錶盤以外,The Infinity Series的機芯的結構同樣令人驚嘆。機芯是來自德國公司 Uhren Werke Dresden(UWD),是Lang & Heyne 的Marco Lang擁有的,意味著機芯也代表著德國機芯的頂尖工藝。每個齒輪都有單獨的旋塞。一個微妙彎曲的調節器突出了三輻平衡,六個偏心配重。洛杉磯製造的 18k 黃金序列號銘牌為機芯畫上了圓滿的句號。錶殼有五種金屬可供選擇,並採用對比鮮明的拋光和紋理表面進行精細修飾。
Schwarz Etienne 是由 Paul Schwarz 和妻子 Olga Etienne 於1902年創立的瑞士製表品牌。百多年傳承下來,它除了屢屢推出引人注目的自家品牌腕錶系列之外,同時也投入高端機芯的製造。為其它公司提供高質量游絲及其它機芯部件Schwarz Etienne 現任首席執行官 Mauro Egermini 在幾年前便已認識了Kari Voutilainen。當時他已經意識到這位芬蘭裔獨立製表師的超凡工藝和聲譽。當兩人進行聊天時,Mauro 對 Kari 那讓人喜愛的謙虛態度感到驚喜,這讓兩人的相處時間顯得無比放鬆和自在。後來,這兩位紳士在接下來幾次的會面場合裡,再次進行了好幾次敞開胸懷的談話,最終他們探索了以某種方式進行合作的可能性。
標誌著由Kari Voutilainen 所製造的 Schwarz Etienne ROMA SYNERGY 帶有雙方的名字。這不是一般客戶與供應商的關係。事實上雙方在錶盤上的設計和製作,以及在最後階段的機芯精工、裝飾、佈置和組裝方面,都是共同在付出相等的巨大努力。
Roma Synergy 的直徑 39 毫米,採用拋光不銹鋼圓形錶殼,搭配比例精美的三針錶盤和小秒針盤,是一款優雅而精緻的經典正裝腕錶。
在柔和圓頂的藍寶石水晶玻璃錶鏡下,Roma Synergy 的錶盤是傳統製表藝術的傑作。有藍色或銀灰色錶盤可供選擇,每款均飾有三種不同的扭索飾紋,其中包括法蘭上的“soleil”飾面、中央的“écaille de poisson”和六點鐘處的小秒針“模糊”點鐘位置。由 Ateliers Kari Voutilainen 手工製作而成,雕刻飾面形成鮮明對比並捕捉光線。經驗豐富的收藏家會立即認出數字和時標的造型也是 Voutilainen 的標誌,而錐形長矛指針則是純粹的 Schwarz Etienne。
藍寶石玻璃表背展示了卓越的 Schwarz Etienne ASE 200.00 自動上鍊機芯,機芯與Voutilainen 的錶盤遙相呼應,充滿著美感,帶有散發出光芒的扭索飾紋從擺輪夾板的中心穿過夾板表面。發條盒蓋具有生動的漩渦拉絲效果,與它相鄰的是安裝在板中的珍珠陀,使機芯的手工完成細節一覽無餘。機芯以 21,600 振動/小時的速度跳動,從單發條盒中獲得令人印象深刻的 86 小時動力儲存。
Kari Voutilainen 與 Schwarz Etienne 的Roma Synergy 是一件美妙的作品,藍色錶盤與銀灰色表盤分別限量50枚,使這款作品成為鑑賞家收藏家的不二之選。
#手錶 #腕錶 #獨立製表大師 #瑞士 #獨立家族品牌 # Voutilainen #SchwarzEtienne #Roma Synergy #瑞士製表
“簡單、精確和純粹的整潔之美”
多年的繁複工作沒有限制住四位的創造力,反而激發了他們極大的創作靈感“讓精良的製表傳統回歸”。Laurent Ferrier 腕錶可以令人感受到嚴謹的設計與古典美學一氣呵成,經典的錶殼設計回應著十九世紀懷錶的外形,低調卻經得起時間的考驗。胸有成竹的Laurent Ferrier 團隊立刻顯露出厚積薄發的力量,2011年首次亮相日內瓦鐘錶大賽的“Galet經典雙游絲陀飛輪”獲得年度最受歡迎男士腕錶大獎,功力可見一斑。 Galet是品牌在2011年推出第一個系列錶款的名字,在經過時間洗禮跟經驗鍛造長達五年之後,"鵝卵石"的形像在2015年巴塞爾表展被重新詮釋,Laurent Ferrier發表全新系列錶款:Galet Square。
Galet Square 的目標是在手腕上有一種存在感,同時保持手錶靈感的經典“鵝卵石”設計。這個錶款的演變是以溫和且漸進的方式,就像礦石長年被海浪拍打沖刷自然形成的曲線。鵝卵石,在大自然數百年來不斷重複運作之下成型,從而將溫柔形狀的最純粹表現具體化。對於Laurent Ferrier來說,Galet是一個錶殼所有零件的完美結合,就像一個人手裡握著一顆鵝卵石。錶殼經過鏡面拋光,表冠鐫刻。
冰藍色太陽光錶盤令人驚嘆。根據光線的不同,會體驗到不同色調的藍色。在 3、9 和 12 處設有白金小時標記,在 6 處設有小秒針指示。
將手錶翻轉過來,更可以看到獨特而精美的自動 LF 229.01 機芯,帶有金色珍珠陀和完美倒角的夾板。令人印象深刻的是,Laurent Ferrier Galet Micro-Rotor 具有雙直接脈衝擒縱機構,通過使用更少的動力和保持振幅的能力改善了機芯,並具有 72 小時的動力儲備。
Laurent Ferrier羅倫斐Galet Square Micro-Rotor珍珠陀系列 冰藍面 LCF013.AC.BW2
June 2019, Chrono Tokyo Second Series
Almost a year after the launch of the first series of Chrono Tokyo, another Chrono Tokyo watch will be released. The Second Series issued in June 2019. Except for the different dial colors, the others are very similar to the first chapter.
The Chrono Tokyo prototype released in April 2018 uses a blue dial, but this does not appear in the first batch production. Fortunately, the blue dial appears in the Second Series. The new model has a creamy "Vanilla Beige" dial, which is more suitable for polishing marks and grooving than the original champagne.
Different from the first chapter, which has only 50 pieces in total, the Second Series introduces 50 pieces of each color.
December 2019, Chrono Tokyo "Classic" Third Series
In 2019, Asaoka san designed a new dial for Chrono Tokyo Third Series, also known as the "classic" dial. It is an evolution from the original design, with a black center and a dynamic outer track. According to Asaoka-san's social media, these dials seem to be more difficult to produce and more expensive than the original ones, but they make a huge change in the appearance of the watches.
The "steel grey" model of the champagne outer rail is similar to the original CT001W. The middle part is similar to the original CT001G dial, which is a combination of Chrono Tokyo's predecessors. But this combination is a complete transformation of the original, making "Classic" one of the most desirable styles of Chrono Tokyo.
Another Chrono Tokyo Third Series features an amazing bronze dial. Compared with the smooth dial, the outer layer of the dial is like a neon light in the dark. The contrast between the bronze dial material and the edge cutting groove increases the profound visual details that cannot be seen on any previous model.
Launched 50 each color, bringing the total number of Chrono Tokyo watches to 250.
June 2020, Chrono Tokyo "bullseye" Fourth Series
The last version of the Chrono Tokyo time only watch released on June 16, 2020. However, Asaoka san has shared the picture of the dial long before the release of Third Series.
The so-called "bullseye" takes away all the grooves on the previous Chrono Tokyo and replaces them with slim Arabic numerals. The outer rail is similar to the previous model, and so is the pointer, but most other elements are very different. The strap is made of goat skin, which is an unusual strap material.
These two watches can be regarded as a tribute to the original Chrono Tokyo model, namely the champagne and gray dial. The classic appearance of champagne, dark appearance band and dial center to form a strong contrast. But the gray tone is completely different, with orange printed dial and outer track. It retains a smooth hour track, which provides more contrast and fun for the gray dial.
That's all for today's introduction. The next article will introduce the trump card of Asaoka-san's "Chrono Tokyo" series - Chrono Tokyo automatic chronograph.
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In the 2020 Tokyo Olympics, Omega decided to make the speedmaster series a special watch series. The new Omega Speedmaster 2020 Tokyo Olympic Games series includes five watches, which are based on the classic professional moonwatch (sapphire crystal version). The design inspiration comes from the five colors of the Olympic flag, blue, yellow, black, green and red rings depicting five continents.
The basic specifications of the limited edition of the new Omega Speedmaster 2020 Tokyo Olympic Games will be familiar to all: 42mm asymmetric case, drawing and polishing, external speedometer scale on the bezel, calibre 1861 hand wound 3-6-9 chronograph, 3-chain steel bracelet. There are no really new elements at this level, except the use of color, the two tone dial and bezel versions, and the design of steel and gold. One difference from the ordinary sapphire crystal version of the moon watch is that it has a solid steel back printed with the Tokyo 2020 logo on its back.
It must be emphasized that the new Omega Speedmaster 2020 Tokyo Olympic Games series will only be sold in the official Omega boutique in Japan, and can also be viewed on the official website of Omega in Japan. However, globalization does have its advantages, and anyone who really wants it may find a way to get it. Each color is limited to 2020 pieces, plus 55 sets of all five watch sets, a specific display box and five extra belts. The price of pure steel model is 680400 yen (about 5240 Euro), and the price of steel combined with gold model is 842400 yen (about 6490 Euro).
Omega Speedmaster 2020 Tokyo Olympic Games blue - 522.30.42.30.03.001
The first one is blue (Reference No. 522.30.42.30.03.001). This design is very familiar to many Speedmaster fans. The overall design is very similar to the features of 2006 Gemini IV Limited Edition (Reference No. 3565.80.00). In fact, it has the same combination: a steel case, a blue bezel, and a blue drawing dial with a white counter. We can appreciate some differences, including the red Speedmaster logo, the extended application index, the silver time counter and the red second hand.
The blue panda model of Omega Speedmaster 2020 Tokyo Olympic Games is very attractive. It feels very different from the usual black dial model. As Gemini IV is becoming more and more rare and expensive in the second-hand market, this may be a good opportunity to get a blue dial Speedmaster.
Omega Speedmaster 2020 Tokyo Olympics yellow - 522.20.42.30.01.001
The second watch in the series of Tokyo 2020 Olympic Games is the yellow ring on the Olympic flag. In this combination, Omega did not use wild bright yellow dial, but chose more luxurious gold, using the two-tone color scheme of gold and steel. Reference 522.20.42.30.01.001 Classic Moonwatch, but added steel and gold look around, with gold pusher, crown and bezel. Its design is reminiscent of Apollo 15 35th anniversary edition (reference 3366.51.00).
The dial uses the same theme, a black metal plate with a glittering gold color, rings, pointers, indexes and all print for the counter, and of course the red Speedmaster logo.
Omega Speedmaster 2020 Tokyo Olympics black (panda) - 522.30.42.30.04.001
The watch, which represents the black ring on the Olympic flag, is sure to be the main spokesperson of the Omega Speedmaster 2020 Tokyo Olympic series, because it is not really black (otherwise it will be a simple moonwatch), but a panda dial. Speedmaster connoisseur will recognize a similar Apollo 11 35th anniversary in 2004 (reference 3569.31.00). However, there must be some differences.
522.30.42.30.04.001 has an extended index and a red Speedmaster logo. The panda dial is converted into a Silver Opal dial and a black counter, combining a classic black frame with a steel case. This is a rare opportunity, but also a very good opportunity to add a panda Speedmaster into your collection.
Omega Speedmaster 2020 Tokyo Olympics Green - 522.20.42.30.06.001
For the green version, the choice of Omega remains ingenious. Omega Speedmaster 2020 Tokyo Olympic Games green, reference number 522.20.42.30.06.001, uses the combination of steel and gold design - this propeller, crown, bezel and all the pointer, index and sub counter rings use Sedna gold (Omega's own rose gold).
The dial is a dark gray tone. Green only appears on the bezel, with gold engraving on the dark green background. The dial is printed in black, while the Speedmaster logo is still red.
Omega Speedmaster 2020 Tokyo Olympics red - 522.30.42.30.06.001
The red ring of the Olympic flag is evoked in the limited edition of Omega Speedmaster 2020 Tokyo Olympic Games, reference 522.30.42.30.06.001. Once again, Omega avoids the completely saturated dial and adopts more cautious colors and unprecedented design. In addition to the Olympic red ring, this design is not difficult to remind you of the national flag of Japan, the host country of the 2020 Olympic Games.
The main novelty is sandblasting light gray dial and silver function dial and pointer. There is red on the insert of the bezel and the Speedmaster logo on the dial.
Technical specification - Omega Speedmaster Tokyo 2020 Olympic Game
Case: 42mm diameter - stainless steel or two tone steel and gold, drawing and polishing - solid steel case - sapphire crystal, dome - 50m waterproof
Movement: calibre Omega 1861 - hand winding - 3Hz frequency - 48 hours power reserve - Integrated cam operated chronograph with central second, 30 minute counter and 12 hour counter - hour, minute and small second
Bracelet: 3-chain steel bracelet, drawing and polishing - folding clasp
Reference: 522.30.42.30.03.001 - Steel / blue
522.20.42.30.01.001 - steel and gold / Black
522.30.42.30.04.001 - Steel / Panda
522.20.42.30.06.001 - steel and gold / Green
522.30.42.30.06.001 - Steel / red
Supply: Japan only
Limited to 2020 units per model
At the same time, a set of 5 watches, limited to 55 sets
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Hajime Asaoka is often referred to as "Philippe Dufour of Japan," an independent watch maker more respected in his homeland than anyone else. Although I am sure that Asaoka-san is flattered by this praise, it is not fair to evaluate his work by his nationality or origin. Asaoka-san won the respect of the watchmaking industry, not because he is the best in Japan, but because he is one of the world's top watchmakers. That's why he quickly joined the Académie Horlogère des Créateurs Indépendants (AHCI) in 2015.
There are three "real" Hajime Asaoka's design, but none of them are mass-produced. “The three handed tsunami”, “Project t tourbillon”, and “Chronograph” are hand-made by Asaoka-san and a group of watch manufacturers in his studio. Every watch produce Asaoka-san by was customized. In the interview of Europa Star in 2018, Asaoka-san compared the watch design process to "playing chess with my customers". So Hajime Asaoka's watch is both traditional and full of unexpected twists and turns.
Hajime Asaoka's watches are in such great demand that they are not available on the market today. Like Mr. Dufour, Asaoka-san has a long waiting list for years, and can only produce a few watches every year. Although his production may have exceeded 19 watches he produced in 2018, but it is impossible for an independent watchmaker to meet the needs of global customers without reducing the quality. In 2020, it was revealed that Asaoka-san only produced "4 Tsunamis, 2 Tourbillons, and 1 Chronograph". Asaoka-san doesn't even have his own watch, because his watch takes so much time to build, and he is focusing on his customers' needs. If everyone can't wear his watch because of capacity problems, he will be very sad.
Chrono Tokyo First Series, October 2018
TiC-TAC is a Japanese watch retailer focusing on watch lifestyle. Since 1984, the store has sold not famous but interesting brands, including Ikepod, Junghans, Lip, Mondaine, Mühle Glashütte, Nomos Glashütte, Stowa, and Seiko’s Astron, Presage, Prospex, and Spirit. TiC-TAC has been expanding and has opened theme stores in many cities.
In early 2018, Hajime Asaoka revealed that he was developing a new watch. Chrono Tokyo series was launched in April 2018 and sold exclusively in TiC-TAC, with 50 in each batch. The prototype used Miyota's 9015 movement, a high-profile automatic movement in BaselWorld 2010, but the production model used Cal.90S5. Asaoka-san explained that this took away the date function which the watch didn't need, and increased the swing angle of the balance.
In April 2018, the world finally saw Hajime Asaoka 's affordable watch series for the first time. Asaoka-san discussed the development process of the watch, including his special hands, through the social platform. Although watch production is outsourced, Asaoka's Precision Watch Tokyo Co. handled most of the work for designing, ordering, final inspection and shipping. Asaoka-san sharing on social media showed his affinity for all aspects of the watch, from packaging to strap to dial to pamphlet.
The first Chrono Tokyo series was released on October 12, 2018, with two reference models, one in champagne dial and the other in grey dial, each with a distinctive contrast. The initial production run was 50 watches with 26 champagne dials and 21 grey dials.
The dial is a new interpretation of the classic design, with a mark applied at four points above the concentric lettering groove. The cylindrical dial with a convex canter needs a curved hands, which only one company in Japan could produce. “ The cream color of the "champagne" dial is a refreshing change. The gray has an organic slate hue in sharp contrast to the hand.
That's all for today's story. We will continue to introduce other crafts of Hajime Asaoka in the next story.
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